The next weekend -attempts at fishing- a croc encounter- and a tour to the 'other side.

NJC on call on Saturday from 0800-2000, and actually worked for about 9 of those hours.  Several of the tasks were related to follow-up for ongoing daily medication, a number of children with temperatures, all of which took time.  

Whilst this is happening Alex, one of the the nurses who has been here for a few months, took ABC fishing.     Another exercise in donating tackle and bait to Neptune.  But the weather was mostly great and the scenery was wonderful.   First went to the beach near the settlement of Numuwumunhana, about four kms south of Galliwin'ku.  For this time of year the water was exceptionally clear, and very calm, with little or no wind.  There were threatening thunder clouds in the distance.  

But visibility was still very good.  This meant that sharks, stingers and crocs would see us from a long way off

Alex-The whole beach to ourselves.

Anyway the wind got up and it rained and rained, and rained some more, but as in the tropics the rain was big heavy and warm, so getting wet was just a matter of drying off again...on the way back to the vehicle we were surprised to find a croc hiding in the driftwood, it wasn't a very big one, but looking at it we decided that there was probably another one somewhere close.

Then went to the barge landing, once again got quite a few nibbles, and the fish were jumping, but none attached themselves to our hooks.

Thanks to the fine education I received from one of the finest diving buddies of several decades ago, one of the discoveries we made on the beach,  I could identify.  Thanks Bruce.  For the want of lots of unnecessary research the author is declaring this to be a new species. (Don't think that taxonomy would even make it to Wikipedia)It was wallowing in a mud flat rockpool, it was about the size of my hand and amazing colours.

Fisher nudibranch .

Sunday, once again , with the permission of the manager, we borrowed the Troopy.  With the troopy and one of the Doctor's HiLux' , all up Dr 'LT,'  nurse  Nathalie, Amy, and Trina, AHW Sarah, Sarah's grandmother Elaine, and 9 yo nephew Ezekiel, took a picnic and headed north.   The road had dried out quite a bit from the previous weekend, but there were still some substantial lakes on the road.

Once again went to the women's beach camp, where some mysteries were unravelled. We had previously seen several Israeli flags being flown from some homes in Galliwin'ku.  Didn't get around to finding out the why.

Elaine showed us and asked us to sign the visitors book at the women's camp.  Inside the front cover the connection to Israel was explained. 

Ezekiel spent all of his time raiding a series of bushes where he showed us that the little black berries were very sweet and good to eat. 

As it was Amy's birthday, we stopped at Sarah's community for our lunch in their fellowship 'hall' 

Our hosts on the community 'green' 

Then back to town where Amy required some driving lessons on the manual transmission of the troopy, but we made it home.  Ready for another week

Survivor. Elcho style. Witch Doctors and Tim Tams

Sounds far more dramatic than it actually is, but maintaining a steady supply of tasty comestibles, is not cheap.    There are three shops in Galliwin'ku; four if one counts the  Elcho fuel shop, and fishing tackle store, five if you count the shop attached to the cultural centre(the last being the only Elcho entity mentioned on TripAdvisor)

There is the Buhtan supermarket, not pictured here

 The Tucker Box  .Attached to the tucker Box is a fast food window.  But not game to go there.

  

and the Alpa Store 

We  would liken these stores to a very small IGA sized Aldi store.   IGA as there is no pretence at fancy decoration, or slick advertising, very utilitarian, and Aldi because there is little if any choice.

Those not well warned, and who fail to use a substantial amount of their 13 kg weight limit for food, will find it was quite expensive. 

For example:

Milk 2 l full fat-$6.50

Four pieces of fruit on a tray ...$6.00

300 g packet of chips $6.5

Frozen chocolate cake $91.00

Baked beans $3.55 a can

Bottle of cordial $5.95.

Kangaroo rump  $18.85 and tail $13.65

Ice cream $10.00 for 2 litres.

But the biggest travesty is a standard pack of TIm Tams.  $9.00

For that price they can afford to stack them upside down.

Some of the high cost can be attributed to all food being brought via barge, and there are no freight specific aircraft.   But surely there just may be a touch of profiteering...the three stores have a monopoly, and there are no farmers markets, restaurants or Maccas within 500 ks of here.  Choices are limited, but even with that limited choice,the  observed choice made by a number of the local people seems to tend towards unhealthy $3.50 can of Coke, or chips....not many veggies going out.

Our food, generally speaking, is veggies, and pasta.  Some of the food we brought included some dehydrated mince, the legendary salami, ground coffee, pesto, some jelly, and other spicy foods.  Getting to the supermarket as soon as possible after the barge has arrived, and before the balanda teachers is the key to optimum food quality 

On call Wednesday night.   NJC was supposed to be the ride-along with one of the new arrivals, and an AHW.  After four patients between 4.00 p.m and 7.30 p.m. the new arrival wasn't confident that she could work out the process.  So the on call was handed over to NJC.  After that the fIrst call was at about 930 p.m. To pick up a gentleman who was having an asthma episode.   Collected Minni the AHW on the way, Back to the clinic with patient and wife then treated him then took him  and the. Minni home.   

Home by 11pm ish 

Home and to bed?  Next call about 2 am from 000 operator, patching a call through for a woman collapsed in Buhtan...like pulling teeth finding out anything, other than the patient was female and breathing.   The address was even difficult, being the first street in Buhtan.  With a questionable set of directions, we rang but couldn't contact the AHW, tried several times..  Went to the house we dropped her off...not there but pointed to another house, where we drove into the front yard honked the horn several times, then knocked on the door...no AHW to be found.....

Then the fun started...checking in with the manager so someone knew where we were and taking the community night patrol with us, we located a large group of people around one collapsed  female.   Then the fun started.... Ensuring DRABC was good (no 'S' 'cause we were the help that would have been sent for anyway) she was breathing and not bleeding but deeply unconscious.  Moving some of the crowd back got the stretcher out of the ambulance, eventually using a patient slide ( stored in the roof racks) got her onto the stretcher but do you think we could get the trolley back into the  ambulance?    Then the fun started....Eventually we used the patient slide, into the ambulance and left the stretcher at the scene.  With a promise from the gathered present would get the stretcher back to the Clinic. ( later worked out that due our unfamiliarity with the stretcher the harnesses had become tangled in the workings and we couldn't see that this was the problem.)  The AHW, had we found her, would have been able to help us sort the operator error)

Back to the clinic where the patient has a few more fits, and was still unconscious.  Drips, blood tests, ECG ( all actually done by NJC not the helper).  There are between five and 10 family members present at any given time, including two 'adorable 'little boys, who were quite a handful. Query first epileptic fit, she eventually regained consciousness.  Liaison with The District Medical Officer in Darwin, and Careflight established that she wouldn't qualify for emergency evacuation, but on the first available flight, which could have got to Galliwin'ku about 0900. 

Terminal one of the Galliwin'ku International airport, and 'my' dodgie troopy in the fore ground 

At about 6.00am a well spoken gent introduced himself as the patient's brother in law, and that his son was a witch doctor, and the nephew (WD)wanted to 'treat' the patient.  The nephew/witch doctor was about 19 years old.  The patient and patient's family was ok with this, and as we were just waiting and observing, with a few rules, (no touching or any 'medicines' or upsetting her) they were permitted to 'examine' and 'treat' the patient.  Asking for a cup of water, and five minutes later we were advised that the WD had found a evil spirt in her and the WD had removed the spirit.     

Notwithstanding our beliefs or otherwise, the patient reported feeling better after this and nobody was hurt during the process, and the family was happy with the result.

Handover at 0800 and the long long transit home, in bed by 0900, and because of the required 10 hour break, no work for NJC today.  

Other than that not much happened.

Gratuitous photos of  kookaburra in our old gum trees

And NJC returning from fishing 

Being tourists Elcho style

The first Saturday on the island...lets go for a walk..you know get a bit of training in for the Camino......several fundamental amateur mistakes were made, which won't happen again.   Even though it is the Wet, it can get quite hot in these parts.

The plan was to walk what is locally known as the Buhtan loop, about five kilometres long. We began at the hottest part of the day and walked between 11.00 and 15.00.  It was going to be 30 degrees and a reasonable 80% humidity.   It was very sunny, not the expected cloud cover, and being a tad north the sun is less likely to provide lots of shade.    Starting out well we decided to change the route and double our distance and walk to the other side of the island to where the barge comes in..  This is about ten ks. It was quite warm. 

 We had lunch at the restaurant at the barge landing - if there was a restaurant on the island we would have...had our sandwiches and watched the locals fishing.   Apparently at this time of the year snapper, baracoota, shark, and smaller school fish are the fare. 

Barge jetty.

But we did get back, and after a bit of rehydration we were set.   

Nathalie was on call from eight p.m Saturday with Sarah the Aboriginal Health Worker.  The first job knocked on our front door....having the ambulance parked out the front is a bit of a magnet.   The patient was a 7 mth child with a temperature..always needing to be checked out.  This was during hand over, so ABC went with Ana, picked up the AHW and met back at the clinic.    The next job was an elderly gent who had pain in his back, so we went to his home, and after an onsite assessment he was provided with some pain relief.  Next call was to a young boy who has severe dental pain, who was given some panadol a tried and true oil of cloves, and a follow up appointment given.  Next was a another child with a temperature, not concerningly  high, and last was a young man who had consumed kava, and was very unwell, physically and mentally. According to the Manual, he was given the appropriate medicines, and sent home under close supervision.  This took NJC to 2 am ish.

To add to the adventure it was very very wet...as we are catching the edge of what has since become cyclone Alfred.   Certainly not sandals weather.  But it does tend to keep people at home.

Sunday we had organised to borrow a Toyota troopy, to do some exploring to the south end of Elcho.   It had been quite wet and on and off the rain was very heavy, and big winds.   The AHW who had been working with Nathalie, Sarah, was asked and  offered to come with us because she could show us her home community at Ban'thula  and have a visit at the same time.  Public transport just isn't.   Collecting her from home at about midday we were honoured to also have her grandmother, Elaine, and niece Emily come with us today.   

Waiting to collect Sarah and her family.

We had heard a story, since confirmed, that one of the doctors , had the previous day, gotten himself bogged on one of the lesser tracks, and had to walk four or so ks to the main road before being picked up, and being winched out by the truck we  were using.   Which explains the volumes of sand in the car.       Sarah, Elaine and Emily, were a bonus to ensure the balanda (white folk) did not get into too much trouble, and get the owners' tour of the island. 

It was wet, and raining, but we were assured by Elaine that we would OK.   Four wheel driving in and around Victoria is mostly premised on poor road base, and lots of mud.  Get through and use momentum.   As we discovered this Is not the case most often here.   The road base is quite good.   There isn't much that will stop the troopy either.

Approaching a very large lake on the road, advice was provided that the middle path was best.   The video was running.   

Having safely successfully driven through the puddle, our most senior passenger was clearly heard to say and record saying 'thank you Jesus' and advice that I could go slower through these lakes.   Andrew considered himself told.   

Seeing seven or eight vehicles travelling inbound, indicated that the road was still well able to be traversed.   Every car that passed, Sarah noted that they contained her family.  

Acting on Elaine's instructions, we turned left, down a somewhat overgrown and easily missed  track.  Some of the track was quite rugged.  Ten or so minutes we arrived at an open area at the coast, which was Elaine's country and used as a dry-season women's camp.   This is a place that the older women stay and for a week at a time, sometimes more, the younger women stay to be taught about women's business.   They are shown and live on bush tucker, Elaine's favourite are oysters.   But this is a dry season food.  

It opens to the beach with six main buildings, open gathering area,many a short walk away we were shown the church.  The church was a mound of red earth  with a cross, and this is the church.     

Nathalie  (on the left), Sarah, Emily and Elaine in the Women's dry season church

A short distance later we got to Sarah"s home community, about 20 houses, and there were very few people there.  None of the family was there, as they had all gone into Galliwin'ku

The community does not have mobile phone coverage, unless you climb up a nearby hill, and stand on one foot, and the other arm in the air.  The Telstra phone box is really the only communication.   There is a building used as a clinic, when the service comes up hers, a small 'shop' and an open sided building that is used as a church and meeting area.   

Lots more rain and nasty wind, we didn't stay and returned through the, now, bigger lakes back to Galliwin'ku.   

Billabong near Galliwin'ku 

Gratuitous photo of out self appointed guardian...DogDog, who we are told has quite a bit of dingo 

Sunset from our back porch 

DogDog, LittleDog, snakes and other encounters

 

Seems that I have lost two un-posted blogs, telling of the exciting adventures we have had since arriving at the island, so I will have to make it, once again sticking as close to the truth as we can.

After settling in and enjoying a rather easy first day, except for the cleaning and washing and scrubbing that come with a house that has been unoccupied for some time.....and the Tuesday night where Nathalie was on call, and had three call outs, Wednesday was pretty slow.      

As stated the walk to work for Nathalie is quite arduous..a whole 150 metres or so....

but there are hazards that aren't immediately evident at home

Think it might be a brown tree snake...? and yes it was dead.

Whilst Nathalie was at work Andrew took a wander to the police station, introduced himself and was made most welcome.    He met most of the staff during the visit, Bettina, an aboriginal community officer, Ralph, an aboriginal liaison officer, Geoffrey, a local elder, and the boss (Sgt.) Ian and his offsides Nathan.

Parking is very difficult.  

Nearest back up is at least 90 minutes away if there is a plane ready to go...mostly any backup will come from Darwin or Gove.   They have to be very self sufficient and rely very much on good liaison and relationships with the local people of Elcho Island.  The island is eighty kms or so long, 6-8 ks wide and not really a lot of metres above sea level.  It is serviced by one main road and two airstrips, the one at Galiwin'ku for the larger planes.   The population is 2000 to 3500 - 13 language groups.  Policing concerns center  around sniffing, mostly avgas at the airport, as there is no fuel other than opal diesel available on the island.  At one stage no aircraft was left on island over-night.  Kava ( a narcotic drink famous in Vanuatu) smuggling cannabis smoking and home brew selling.  As Elcho is a Dry Community, there  is no legal possession or supply of alcohol.  The home brew is not  beer that's for sure...described by Nathan as vomit smelling evil stuff.   

As unemployment is so high much of the money coming to the local people is in the form of Commonwealth Benefits, or locally known as 'Sit down money'. Gambling is a big problem, cards being the obvious and major method.     At one stage the local shop stopped selling decks of cards, but the locals just developed their own supply chain.   

The problem with unemployment is that it won't be simply solved.   To have high levels of employment a major industry will have to come to the island....that is not likely to happen, and the peoples' connection with their land is so strong that it isn't viable to move them away from the island for employment.   

Policing here is very difficult and it is apparent that many local law and odd issues are resolved  right is right and wrong is wrong..despite the unique cultural beliefs and practices of the local people as Ian points out in no culture is it ok to hurt children, your partners or anyone else for that matter.

The island is mostly made up of red...very red, almost iron ore , but obviously not rich enough to mine And this time of year it is very manageable as much of the dust is kept down by the wet.   

There are two 'other' characters hanging around the clinic all the time.  DogDog is a dog of some age, of indeterminate, but multiple breeds.   

He had a friend you know! 'LittleDog' younger and littler than DogDog but of equally firm breeding. Little dog has an aboriginal name that despite being told several times the author can not .   

LittleDog still a companion at 2.30 in the morning outside the clinic.

 DogDog just appears, and then will look at you bark and mutter,mother walk about 20 or so metres in front of you and keep turning to you and talk.   It's as if he's our escort. LittleDog is less aloof, actually nuzzling up when you least expect it.   We are under no illusion that these are not inside dogs, bed warmers, or couch ornaments, lest we be de-fleaing for months.

The clinic, is run by the community, funded entirely through federal funds.  

It provides an ambulance service for the township of Galliwin'ku, and clinical services for everyone  on the island.  There are two doctors, who provide an office hours GP service, and about six nurses on permanent ( well more three to 12 month contracts)basis, assisted by occasional shorter period contracting staff...there are regular visiting dentist, specialist doctors and other medical staff as required.   There are regular clinics for chronic illness clinic, ED, men's and women's clinic, mental health, and kids clinic.

We have arrived....

Twin engined plane, thirty or so passengers,  from Darwin for the 45 minutes to Manigrida International airport where most of the passengers got off.  Being limited to 13 kg, including much of our food, ( more about food on the island later) packing was somewhat frugal....well it's not as if we need winter woolies,

 'Most' of the passengers appeared to be in some way employed by government, and there was, so it appeared, one tourist; abc.  Of those many it was clear was involved in the health sphere.  It is a big industry.   

Took off again for the shorter hop to Galawinku, on Elcho island.  

Arrived at airport and it was hot and raining.....and of course all our baggage is thrown into the tray of the truck, and it rained even more....arrived at the ngalkanby clinic, introduced those present, many of whom remembered NJC from her October stint here.    The new clinic near the airport is awaiting the installation of the fibre-optic, and then it's all go.....but the old clinic has seen many years of good service, but is well past the use-by date.  We have been accommodated at the three bedroom house, about 200 metres from the current clinic. We are the only occupants.  Not sure how long it has been vacant, but there was a layer of fine red dust as well as accumulated fluff throughout.  No carpets, as they would just go mouldy, so heavy duty linoleum.  Washed some bedding,  

Have a resident gecko, whose chirping makes one look for the smoke detector.  They are very benign, and useful house guests, earring many of the annoying house guests..ie moths, mosses, and from time to time spiders.

Had a bit of an orientation wander, and this is a lovely island...and very very green.

Tuesday the14th of February is Jack Benny's birthday and it is apparently Valentine's Day.   Can not get the satellite T.V to work..found out there wasn't a set top box present, whose absence made the reception nil.     

Doesn't get more romantic than that...$6.50 Valentine's Day gift.

The weather is wonderful 30 ish and only 70% humidity, and a NE breeze running on shore.  Not unpleasant.  No rain for the next day or so....not too bad...

So what more can go wrong. Nathalie is on call.   What that means is that from 5 p.m to 8 am she has the on-call phone, and is, almost the mobile ED for the night.  Once a call is received, a basic triage is conducted, and if required the patient is asked to come to the clinic, or if serious enough, or the patient doesn't have transportation, the ED goes to them.  Then the Aboriginal Health worker is contacted to check out if the call could be "humbug" ( either false or recidivist minor complaints).  Then if assessed as serious, the AHW and  on call nurse meet the patient at the clinic, or go to the location picking up the AHW on the way .   The most exciting thing is that she also gets to drive the ambulance home...(a full 200 m).  It is a sturdy land cruiser troopy, and similar in drivability to the one we have at home......needs a bit of TLC, but adequate.

 There were three call outs, 1900hrs to an address, and the next two at the clinic at 2200hrs and 0100hrs.  Each time ABC got to drive to collect the AHW from her house and then to the address or back to clinic.   Fortunately all the calls turned out to be not serious, but had to be checked out nonetheless, including a young child with a fever, a man with pain in arm and shoulder ( maybe cardiac issues) and a dizzy disoriented man.  So not to bed before 0300 ish.

With no working side mirror, backing it in was fun....And abc was standing in front to take the picture 

The ambulance has lights and siren, and we could not imagine any circumstances where the siren would be needed, and the lights just attract people.  It's not as if there is traffic.  A car (mostly Toyota Land Cruisers or troopy) maybe, but two in a row...not often.  But care was required as the people of the island, seem to have a mostly nocturnal existence.  Many people wandering the roads up to two a.m....and beyond no doubt.

More later...NJC and ABC 

Darwin.....stressful

Had a good night's sleep, the weather whilst humid wasn't all that bad.  The ceiling fan worked wonders.   But rain, clearly we are visitors, as the rain was significant in noise and wetness

And on it went....

LV B&B provided a continental breakfast, and some sort of grain with yogurt and black fly specks...told it is muesli and cheer seeds.   And it's good for you.    Checked out the local market, in the rain, went to the shops, in the rain, and back.     Everything here is MOIST, most MOIST.  For those who don't know what 95% humidity is like....they have a two section plastic bag they hang in wardrobes.  Top bit has water absorbing materiel and the bottom collects the water.....from the air....

Went to the waterfront and relaxed at the wave pool.....not very crowded, but wavy.

Which is about as much relaxing a we can cope with......too much to do and experience.

Relaxation over...and despite warnings and sunscreen and substantial cloud coverage two thirds of the part could have played rudolf...some say glowing......'told ya so'. But the author is not game to say such.

Walked seven or so ks for the day and had a pizza dinner in FANNIE BAY.....get the giggles out...Fannie Bay...fannie bay......

Back to the B&B and there was actually some blue sky and sunshine......packed for Elcho.  Limited to 13 kg and 4 kg carry on.   Most of the weight was food, as food on Elcho is very expensive.

Yes that is a salami in her carry on.....and glowing complexion.    

Bit like passengers in a northern Lao local bus, don't think there'll be any live chooks though.   Soon to take off into the clouds, Maningrida first to refuel then Elcho two hours all up.

Will rate LV B&B on TripAdvisor with a five star...good rates and proprietor was very accomodating.

See you all if we land...gotta go.....

ELcho-Dandenong to Tullamarine -to Darwin

It's cyclone season, and we are heading North....way North.  

NJC has been able to get a short term contract, nursing, in a remote Aboriginal Community, three weeks in Elcho Island.  This is an island off the north east coast of Arnhem Land.  NJC has been there before, but ABC has not.   It is about an hour's flight from Darwin.

Through the good graces of our favourite son in law and favourite daughter, we were transported to the airport, and with amazing ease through the check in stuff.   Qantas of course..."Qantas never crashed...Qantas never crashed"

Took a photo of the planes, and it wasn't 'til got the photo's back from the developer that we saw the strange lights in formation over the airport........

Not a very full flight, about 40 passengers....

Waved goodby to Hangen as we took off to the west...I'm sure he will miss us too

Uneventful flight except for the dodgie "entertainment " screen, that kept freezing.  Guy, the air steward was very good about it, and there was enough room for us to pick any number of other screens that weren't being used.   So not a big issue......but where this story is going is that for our inconvenience we walked off the flight with a bottle of plonk.    It's a nice gesture..

Lots of water in Lake Eyre

Kindly collected at the airport by Lisa, who has only recently moved up to Darwin, for a job with Ausmat. Staying at the luxuriously appointed LV B&B, in Nightcliff.    Lost an hour and a half and twenty years, but gained about 50% humidity....but we did know we were heading to the tropics.     Very overcast and raining a lot, but still very warm and humid.   

Wandered to the Darwin port, wave pool, 'beach' swimming, and lots of drinking holes.  Got very wet.

Needed to do a bit of shopping for food to take over to Elcho, but we are limited to 4 kg carry on and 13kg stowage.  Food on Elcho is very expensive.